Good Drink, The New Brunswick Telegraph Journal, November 27, 2009
I spent most of my second week in France in Northern Rhone, a much smaller appellation than Southern Rhone, but blessed with some of the most famous, and most delicious, wines in the world.
We started in the pretty riverside town of Tain d’Hermitage, where one of the most iconic landmarks in terms of wine geography – the vine covered hill of Hermitage – dominates the landscape, rising above the small town, with its famous Chapel lit up at night. It’s quite spectacular.
Our visit winery visit was with Ferraton Pere & Fils, who still keep a small old winery right in downtown Tain. The location has been used for winemaking for over 2 centuries. Ferraton is owned by Chapoutier, but make their own wine under their own labels. We tried a range of their wines, from a good 2007 Cote de Rhones rouge (not at ANBL but available at Bishop’s Cellar in Halifax), to their succulent premium whites from Saint Joseph and Condrieu, up to their 2006 Hermitage Les Miaux. I believe this was my first Hermitage ever, and it was a nice start. Although big and quite juicy with red fruit, this 100% Syrah red has big tannins, some smoky/tarry complexity and a long delicious finish. Two of their wines are available at ANBL: a Chateauneuf du Pape Le Parvais and a Crozes Hermitage La Matinere ($26.48). This is a minerally red, lightly oaked, dry, food friendly and elegant.
Hermitage in the fall
After tasting Hermitage, we drove up to the top of the hill to see the chapel and vineyards, and enjoy the gorgeous view. That was a wine mecca moment for me.
That evening we had a fabulous dinner at Le Mangevins, a wonderful restaurant and wine bar. The owner treated us to a taste of one of his favourites; a 1998 Saint Joseph (another famous Syrah appellation close to Hermitage) from J.L. Grippart (whose vineyards are now owned by Guigal). It showed just how wonderfully these wines can age. It showed beautifully with smooth tannins, pleasing smoke, anise, blackberry fruit, and a very silky texture. Fantastic.
The next morning we visited the new, modern winery of the decadent Delas – part of the Champagne Deutz group – famous producers of premium Northern Rhone wines, including White Hermitage, Condrieu, Saint Joseph, Croze-Hermitage, Cote-Rotie, Cornas, and Hermitage. All of their wines were excellent, the highlights for me were the two very different Condrieu and the Hermitage. For Condrieu, the opulent La Galopine, surprisingly (based on its viscous texture) unoaked, was the richest dry table white I’ve ever had, and Clos Boucher, also rich, partly from oak barrel treatment, is actually elegant and fresh, with pure apricot notes. These are “wow” wines. The Hermitage, a 2006, was a 5 star Decanter selection, and no wonder. This is one of the most complex wines I’ve had in my short wine life. Its flavours actually reminded me of foie gras! It also had bacon/smoked meat notes, violets, pleasant herbal anise aromas, tar and a bit of mint. And yes, of course, there was some black fruit too. After a bit longer in the glass it showed some coffee notes, presumably from the 16 months of oak aging in 1 and 2 year old barrels. This wine still has a lot of life left in it. This one I didn’t spit! I brought a bottle home to hang onto for a special occasion. Delas is not available in New Brunswick, but does sell in other parts of Canada.
Before leaving Tains, we visited Cave de Tains, a cooperative that is the area’s biggest producer, including 20% of all Hermitage wines. We sampled several wines at their new tasting room and restaurant in the middle of one section of the Hermitage vineyards: quite a view for a wine enthusiast.
They specialize in good value wines from all the Northern Rhone appellations. We tried Saint-Peran (refreshing whites, including sparklers, made from Marsanne and Rousanne), Croze-Hermitage, Saint Joseph, Cornas and Hermitage. All well made wines, but my favourite for the $ was the quite classic tasting Saint Joseph Esprit de Granit, available for around $30 in Quebec and BC.
We had a great visit at the winery of Yves Cuilleron in Condrieu. Cuilleron deserves some credit for revitalizing the Condrieu appellation, now one of the most sought after whites in the world, unusually so, because it is 100% Viognier. He took over his uncle’s winery in 1987. Before his uncle it was his grandfather’s. The Northern Rhone wines practically disappeared in the first 2/3 of the 20th century, after the phylloxera root louse decimated Europe’s wine industry. It wasn’t until the late 1970’s and early 80’s that Condrieu started to be replanted. As evidence, 30 years ago there were only 15 hectares (ha) of Condrieu planted, and now it is around 150 ha. Still a very small amount of wines, butt hat just helps create demand and keep prices high. It is hard to get a bottle of Condrieu in Atlantic Canada for less than $50. Cuilleron alone has increased Viognier plantings from 4 ha to 18 ha. We tried a range of his whites, including his very illustrative 100% Rousanne and 100% Marsanne wines from Saint Joseph, and his reds from Cote Rotie, which traditionally include some Viognier with the Syrah.
His fame though, comes from his impressive Condrieu. We tried Les Chaillets, from the rather lean 20008 vintage (many winemakers told us on the trip that they did not make their top reds that year due to the disappointing conditions. But don’t worry – every one is thrilled about 2009!) It had pure apricot aromas, expected for Viognier, as well as minerality and fresh acidity. There is oak in the wine, but it is not that evident. 2008 was less bad for whites than reds, as white wine with acidity is nice to have with food. But 2008 Condrieu is definitely not as fat (low acid) as is typical. A restaurant would do well to have whites from 2008 in the cellar for certain dishes. To finish, we tried a special, rare wine: a 2007 Condrieu Late Harvest made from 60% botrytized grapes. It is labeled as a Vin Liquoreux as there is no designated sweet wine appellation for Condrieu (yet!).
I have to admit that I drank more Hermitage and Condrieu last week than I had in my entire life previous to this trip. It was a decadent week, to be sure. Imagine buying Condrieu by the glass for $10 at restaurants as an aperitif! If you haven’t tried this special wine, that may mean nothing to you, but believe me, it was quite an experience for this wine guy.
Craig Pinhey is a writer and Sommelier, available for private tastings. Visit him at www.frogspad.ca.
