Burgundy, France was the first wine region I learned about in the Sommelier course I took in 2000. I learned from my instructor, Adam Dial, a self-confessed Burgundy lover, about the importance of terroir – the climate, the soil, the geography, the culture - to this famous wine region. The region’s vineyards were mapped out based on their unique qualities by the Cisterian monks around the start of the 12th century, so they have a certain religious quality to them. Well, that’s as close to religion as this heathen will ever get. Now, most are sub-divided into many small pieces owned by many different growers, due to the laws of Napoleonic succession. I was taught to appreciate the difference in wines from different subregions, communes and vineyards, and I grew to love these wines, both the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, but had only dreamed of actually visiting until last month, when I experienced some of the region’s most famous vineyards, tasting the wines too, of course. This was like living out everything I had studied in the Sommelier program.
The Remparts in Beaune by my hotel
Starting with the town of Beaune, I immersed myself in the culture, staying close to the train station at the quaint Hotel Remparts, named for the adjacent fortress walls that surround the old city. I immediately went for a long lunch at a local restaurant, sitting outside, enjoying mushroom soup and chevre salad, with a crisp glass of Saint Veran 2007 blanc, from Domaine F. Curis (4 Euros, or $6.25), an oaky white 2007 Saint Aubin 1er Cru “Les Frionnes” from Domaine M. Champaud (5 Euros), and a rather soft and juicy 2005 Pommard from Domaine de la Crea (7 Euros).
Mushroom Soup in Beaune
Now, a quick explanation about vineyards and communes, using those three wines I had at lunch. The first and third wines were Commune wines, specifically from Saint-Veran and Pommard. That is a step up from a Sub-Regional wine, such as a Côte de Beaune, and 2 steps up from a basic appellations d’origine contrôlée (AOC) Bourgognes. The second was a single vineyard wine of the Premier Cru level, from the Commune of Saint Aubin. The vineyard (or Cru) name was Les Frionnes. There is only one level higher than that: Grand Cru, which are the vineyards recognized as the best. These are typically south to south-east facing and mid slope on the Côte D’Or, the long skinny hill that runs North to South through Burgundy, and the wines from these vineyards are notoriously expensive, especially when from a heralded producer.
A simple meal with good wine: pork with Dijon sauce
After lunch I toured the famous Hospices de Beaune Hotel-Dieu, where they do the annual auction of wines from the vineyards owned by the Hospices. This hospital was where the poor and infirm were taken care of since 1443, but is now a museum. Afterwards I crossed the street and did the Marche Aux Vins in the cellars under the buildings. The wines are all made by Patriarche Pere & Fils, a decent producer, and it is a great deal: 10 Euros for 15 samples, from basic Commune wines up to 1er Cru Beaune and Mercurey, and a Grand Cru Corton-Perrieres. Drinking them in the dark cellar makes them taste better than they are. Most interesting were a couple of Commune reds from the 1999 vintage, and a 2000 Beaune 1er Cru Greves red that was tasting great.
The famous Hospices de Beaune
The next day was nice, so after lunch I took a 7 km walk to the hill of Corton to taste a few wines, including a quick visit and tasting of a 2006 Corton Les Renardes Grand Cru ($72.86 for the 2003 at ANBL) at the stately, gorgeous Château de Corton-André. From there I climbed the wall to check out the Grand Cru Vineyards, then walked back to Beaune through the surrounding appellations.
The famed Hill of Corton
Chateau Corton Andre
The next day was dedicated to Bouchard Pere & Fils, a dominant player in the world Burgundy market, with many wines for sale at the ANBL. After a brief tour of their modern winery, we drove around, touring vineyards around the town of Beaune, such as “L’Enfant Jesus” a famous red wine 1er Cru (there are a few bottles in ANBL for $91.48), the ridiculously valuable Le Montrachet Vineyard, and the various sites around the towns of Meursault, Volnay, Puligny, Pommard and others. It was a memorable day for me.
Craig at Bouchard's Parcel of Le Montrachet
Next was Bouchard’s Chateau in Beaune. They actually own the castle that the king used to defend against the citizens of Beaune who didn’t take kindly to the French royalty taking over their city. The castle now has wine stored under the turrets instead of weapons and soldiers. after a brief tour, I did a lunch and tasting of the 2008 whites and 2007 reds, including such iconic wines as Meursault Genevrieres 1er Cru white ($83.99 at ANBL for the 2004), Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru white ($160.78 at ANBL for the 2004), Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru white (wow!), Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot 1er Cru red (2002 is at ANBL for $67.79) , Le Corton Grand Cru red ($96.83 for the 2002 at ANBL), Clos-Vougeot Grand Cru red, and Beaune Greves Vigne de L’Enfant Jesus 1er Cru red, a very pretty, elegant Pinot Noir. Over lunch we tried the 1995 version of the Volnay Les Caillerets, which tasted young, with pretty cherry fruit, floral notes, good structure and virtually no loss of colour.
Those are all impressive wines, classical in style. More affordable and also delicious were the Beaune de Chateau red and white. We have the fantastic 2005 red and very good 2004 white for $42.78 at the ANBL. These are blends of various 1er Cru vineyards, but are sold at Commune prices.
Bouchard Chateau in Beaune
On my last day I visited Domaine Fevre in Chablis, home to the best, crisp, minerally Chardonnays in the world, and, after a wonderful lunch of chevre and salad with a half bottle of their 2007 Bougros Grand Cru Chablis (!), went to walk around the Grand Crus, all planted on limestone from ancient seashells. It was interesting to see how all the best Chablis comes from such a small area. You can see pretty much the whole Grand Cru acreage from one vantage point. Since my company name is Frog’s Pad, I was particularly interested to see the Grand Cru Grenouilles, right by the river; the story is that the people used to complain when working the vineyard that the sounds of the frogs from the river would drive them nuts!
I also saw the famous Grand Cru Bougros, which is the coolest terroir, lowest on the slope, where they have pipes through the vineyard to spray the vines when necessary. This coats them in a layer of ice for insulation to avoid damage. I tasted the range of 2007 Fevre wines after this vineyard tour, and the Bougros was perhaps the most classic, showing austerity, limestone minerality, good acid, and a rich long finish. I love Chablis, and I wish I could afford Grand Cru or even 1er Cru on a regular basis. At the ANBL we have 2004 Les Preuses Grand Cru for $67.79. I found the 2007 to be quite approachable and fruity in Chablis. We can also buy the 2006 1er Montmains for $53.29 (also very classic in style, with mineral and lemony acid) and basic AOC Chablis for $34.79.
Grand Cru Chablis Vineyards: Bougros in foreground and Grenouilles in the back
Now that I’m home from Burgundy I find myself craving it. Going there was like a religious retreat for me, and I feel like I need more preaching!
Craig Pinhey is a freelance writer and Sommelier available for private events. Visit him at frogspad.ca or call 647 8466.
